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Yosemite (say “yo-se-mi-tee”) July 7, 2008

Posted by faranaaz in Travel.
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Hey everyone. It’s late at night and we’ve just done packing our bags. Oh my lord. You can’t possibly imagine it. The box with the Xbox alone weighs about 46lb — about 20kg! The giant duffel bag is much more than that. And we got around the packing issue by completely emptying the overnight bag, squeeeezzing all that stuff into the duffel bag, and then shoving the laptop bag into the overnight bag. :P Same amount of stuff, fewer items to carry. Well, its heavy heavy heavy. Sameer can only walk about half a block carrying the Xbox box and I can go only a bit more withe duffel bag, which has wheels and a handle but not an extendable handle so it keeps bumping my leg. Anyway, so we’re probably going to take a taxi to the train station and then ride the train all the way to the airport. Then get a big ass cart and check everything in. Damn! Thank God Lamiese is coming to fetch us from the airport. I think we could possibly have gone to her house by bus/train/taxi but it would have been a major schlep.

Anyway, what? Yosemite! This was one of the major highlights of our trip. I really should dedicate so much more time to this blog but it’s late and I’m tired and I need to get it out the way before we run out of our 24 hours of internet. (Don’t you hate hotels that charge for internet access?)

So, okay. We drove from Cambria to Yosemite and that took us about 4 hours or so. When we got there we drove in through the gates and saw a sign that said “Giant Sequoia Grove”. Since check in wasn’t until 5pm, we decided to go thataway. Initially we thought we’d just take a peek at the immediate sequoias but we actually ended up hiking all the way up the mountain and back again to see most of the big trees marked on the route. It took us about three and a half hours! Sameer started to get a bit woozy at the end coz we hadn’t had lunch and he’d declined by offer of pumpkin bread and apricot creamcheese (leftovers from breakfast at J Patrick House). But I was glad we did it because we never did end up coming back to the grove and it was the only big hike we did while there.

Sequoias are incredible trees. They are very resilient and grow for hundreds of years to incredible heights of over 300 feet. They take ten to 15 years to mature and then they have seeds, which take about another 20 years to grow before dropping from the upper branches! Here are some of the awesome trees we saw.

The Grizzly Giant

The Grizzly Giant

The Grizzly Giant. This guy fell over about 300 years ago and he’s still mostly intact! It’s the tannins in the bark of the tree that give it the red-orange color (think “Redwood”, a distant cousin), make it resistant to fire, drought, and disease and also prevents decay after the tree dies.

The California Tunnel Tree

The California Tunnel Tree

Then the California Tunnel Tree. They cut a giant hole through this tree to let stage coaches through during the gold rush era and it just went right on growing. This was the winter alternative to the Wawona Tunnel Tree which is much bigger with a much bigger hole cut in it. That one died years ago but people still go up the mountain to see it. We didn’t coz we were lazy and it was pretty far up there. :P

Then there’s the Bachelor and the Three Graces which you can see on my Picasa album for Yosemite.

The Faithful Lovers

The Faithful Lovers

And then the Faithful Lovers. These guys were amazing. They sprouted from seeds that landed close together and over the (hundreds of) years they grew together and now seem like one tree.

The Clothespin Tree

The Clothespin Tree

Then the Clothespin Tree. This one looks like a giant clothes line pin, it’s split right up the middle but it’s still alive and well! It doesn’t look that impressive at first view but it is absolutely enormous!

The Telescope Tree

The Telescope Tree

And finally the Telescope Tree, unbelievably also alive and well! This picture was taken while standing inside the trunk!

After we got back from the grove, we had to drive for about an hour at speeds of between 25 and 30 miles per hour until we got into the Yosemite Valley itself. The ride made me absolutely car sick and I was just holding on for dear life with a little just-in-case baggie in my hands as we drove. Then we passed through a tunnel and then we got our first real look at the area and it’s granite mountains.

Half Dome

Half Dome

We went to book into our accommodation at Camp Curry. Camp Curry was founded in 1899 by a mom ‘n pop couple — the Currys — who hosted and entertained guests at seven tents in their camp in the Yosemite Valley. It’s grown in size since then and now has over a hundred tents and cabins but the feel is still rustic and laid back. Ideally we would have wanted to stay at one of the slightly better accommodations in the valley but like the Grand Canyon, this books out over a year in advance. We were lucky to get the tented cabin we got.

Replica welcome sign at Camp Curry

Replica welcome sign at Camp Curry

Our tented cabin cost about the same as staying at a Holiday Inn elsewhere but it was a tent with two metal frame beds, with army issue bedding, and a single light. Showers and toilets were shared. Here’s a picture of Sameer being unimpressed with our accommodations.

Our \

Our tented cabin

The other drama with staying in the valley is that you have to bear proof your site. California black bears roam the valley and they are voracious scavengers who will sniff out any food or smelly stuff you have, including toothpaste, deodorant, and even water bottles. You’re not allowed to keep any of this stuff in your cabin or tent or even your car. Bears have torn the doors off cars to try to get to food stored inside and in boots. Everything has to be stored inside a bear proof locker and all food related items, including sweet wrappers, handy wipes and used gum must be disposed of in bear proof trash cans.

Lower Yosemite Falls

Lower Yosemite Falls

So after our long hike and after settling into our cabin and stowing all our food and toiletries in the bear locker, we decided to take a trail up to the lower Yosemite Falls. It was an easy walk with a lovely view at the end and we eventually strolled down just after sunset. And then we realized that when camping, you really out to have a flashlight.

Ten o’clock is lights out at Camp Curry and it’s supposed to be quiet time but we kept hearing talking and laughing and giggling. The beds weren’t too comfortable and the room got chilly so I woke up in the middle of the night to pile on more blankets. I also woke up at one point to the sound of snuffeling. My half addled mind registered that this was probably a bear sniffing around for a snack but I figured he wouldn’t be half interested in us and I went back to sleep. We had a four hour mule ride planned for early next morning and I needed my rest. Sameer had ear plugs in and managed to sleep pretty well.

We were woken the next morning by a loud shriek and what sounded like the pop of an air gun. But we were tired and groggy so we lay in bed while a commotion started to build around us. Then we heard someone just behind our tent and say “Mikey, come here. There’s a bear in the camp!” and decided we better get in on the action. We pulled on our clothes and I opened the screen door. I barely got it open when a gruff voice shouted “GET BACK INSIDE! THERE’S A BEAR OUT HERE!!!” It was a park ranger and he was standing just outside our door with a huge club in his hand.

Baby bears up in the tree

Baby bears up in the tree

We lifted the shades on the door and looked out and there in front of us were two bear cubs, halfway up a tree. Then the ranger shouted again “STAY IN THERE, THE MOTHER’S RIGHT NEXT TO YOU”. We couldn’t see what he was talking about so we went to the other wall and pulled up the shades on that little window and there she was, the momma bear, looking for her cubs.

Well this was drama. We were the only people in our row still trapped inside our cabin and we couldn’t move coz we had bears in front of us and bears on the side of us. Eventually, the babies started crying and the ranger got everyone who was watching to back off so the mom could come get them. She gathered them up and led them round the side of our tent. Then the ranger started banging on bins and making an almighty racket to get her to leave the camp.

Momma comes to collect the babies

Momma comes to collect the babies

We later found out that a women had woken up earlier on and gone to get some food out of her bear locker. The bear charged her, she screamed and ran off. Then the cubs came in and they all had a bit of a feast. Apparently it was quite a rare incident. They say when you see a bear you should stand your ground, make yourself look big and make a lot of noise to scare it off coz bears are generally non confrontational. But if they charge and you run, then they get what you want and become braver around people.

So anyway, by this time we were running late for our mule ride. But we managed to get over there in time and saddle up. Sameer rode a mule called Gertie and I got Twitch who really needed a switch. He was such a slow poke that he slowed the whole train down. Sameer spent about four hours chatting to our guide while I spent four hours kicking Twitch in the sides to get him to move. Our guide, Dawn, said the only way you get a mule to move is by being more stubborn than they are. All the concentration put a bit of a damper on my day.

Mule train passes us by

Mule train passes us by

But the mules were kind of cool. They don’t use horses because mules are apparently smarter and more sure footed than horses. They don’t scare that easily, they naturally walk in a line, and they always manage to ferret out the safest path up the mountainside. I wasn’t allowed to keep my camera with me so unfortunately I don’t have any pictures but it was the most amazing ride, right alongside huge gushing rivers and on a steep incline up the mountain through woods and dales.

When we eventually got back were sore all over and covered in dust. We stopped for lunch at one of the cafeterias, then changed into shorts and went to hire rafts. There’s a river called the Merced that winds slowly through the valley and taking a slow ride down it in a raft is one of the most recommended things to do in Yosemite. It was amazing. The water was so clear you could see straight down to the pebbles on the riverbed. You could see fish just sitting there on the bottom. In some places the river was so low the bottom of the raft barely cleared the stones and at other times you could stick your paddle straight down and it still wouldn’t touch bottom. And all around just woods and hills and sheer rock face.

Floating down the Merced

Floating down the Merced

At first we were just focused on paddling and steering but we eventually realized that we could aim the boat straight and then pretty much lie back and float along. When I wasn’t sitting on the edge of the raft with one foot trailing in the chilly water (it all comes from snow melt high up in the mountains), I was lying flat on the side with an arm and leg in the water and my face turned up to the granite behemoth that was Half Dome.

After that, we were done. We were tired and mellow — a bad combination coz all it makes you want to do is lie down and snooze. We went to take showers (terrible queues but such bliss!), then took a stroll through a nearby meadow. There were deer in the meadow, just grazing in the tall grasses. Who knew where they came from as the meadow, though large, was far removed from the woods and bordered by roads on all sides. Everyone stopped to watch and take pictures and we couldn’t help but think of the young Bambi.

Bambi and his friend grazing in the meadow

Bambi and his friend grazing in the meadow

And then we had dinner and an early night before driving on to San Francisco. Oh San Francisco. The dodgiest town we’ve been to. Lordy, there is a story to tell.

Cambria July 6, 2008

Posted by faranaaz in Towns, Travel.
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Cambria and the Pacific Coast

Cambria and the Pacific Coast

After we left LA, we drove along the Pacific Coast Highway (Route 1) and headed for Cambria. The drive was about four hours and when we got there we immediately went to J. Patrick House where we were staying for the night to see if we could check in. But we were actually an hour early and they were still busy cleaning so they asked if we could go explore the town for a bit until the got everything ready.

J Patrick House signpost

J Patrick House signpost

So we drove into town, which was just one street away and I immediately started snapping away with the camera. Okay, admittedly Cambria is totally a tourist town but it wasn’t always that way and ask you walk past gallery after gift shop after curio shop, you can still get a feeling for the small, coastal California town it used to be.

Main Street, Cambria

Main Street, Cambria

Almost every building had some sort of garden attached and most of them had incorporated iron sculptures or water features into the layout.

Water feature

Water feature

Some of the more interesting shops in the area were Every Cowboy’s Ranch House where cowboy memorabilia and art are sold.

Every Cowboy Ranch House

Every Cowboy Ranch House

Also The Squibb House, where the former schoolmaster used to stay and the carpentry workshop that was set up alongside it later on. The house has been repaired over the years but is still almost unchanged. Today it operates as a guesthouse. The workshop is still a workshop and they still make and sell furniture there today.

The Squib House

The Squibb House

We drove past the school house that was built after the schoolmaster arrived in town later that day but unfortunately I didn’t get to take a picture. It was a red-painted one room schoolhouse like you see in picture books.

The Sweet Shop was absolutely adorable. It was all glossy and bright and glass jars all over the place filled with brightly colored candy or every sort. I really wanted to take a picture but I felt a bit shy about asking. Instead I just bought some Razzles and moved on.

The Sweet Shop

The Sweet Shop

Anyway, then we went back to J Patrick House to check in. When we came into the main building we could smell cookies baking. The woman who met us there told us about their setup for the day. They have a wine and cheese gathering for all the guests at 5:30 so everyone can meet up and have a chat and in the evenings they put out milk and cookies in the parlour near the bedrooms. Then in the morning they put out coffee for the early risers and then serve breakfast between 8 and 10. We went to our room and settled in and then we went back out to explore the town some more.

There’s a walk that the locals like to take a long the cliffs so we went that way. The local nature society had set up boardwalks and bridges along the way to preserve the fauna and every so often there were spots where you could stop for a rest on huge chairs made of driftwood. There were little squirrels and large field mice scurrying this way and that, hiding under bushes and darting into their holes and we spotted a tiny bird harassing an eagle that was probably looking to snatch one of it’s babies.

Seaside walk

Seaside walk

After that we went back to the town to look at some more shops. There were lots of antique shops with the sort of brick a brack that you normally find at those church fetes or retirement home sales they have on Saturday mornings in Rondebosch, old tea sets and children’s toys, books and posters. There was also a magic shop that I quite liked. It sold kids books and young adult novels as well as magician’s cards and tricks and Harry Potter memorabilia. It had a great vibe – wooden floors and dusty corners and a salesperson who was dressed as a magician.

After that we drove up to the cemetery on the hill. Along the way I started getting a bit creeped out. For some reason the winding road that went up into the woods made me think of Pet Cemetery or some other Stephen King novel. When we got to the top I realized that being there was making Sameer really uncomfortable. I find cemeteries really peaceful but it turns out he finds them depressing. Since we’ve never actually been to a cemetery together before, this was new to me. I guess after six years you can still learn something new about your partner. But we were already there so I decided to snap a few pictures.

Cemetery on the hill

Cemetery on the hill

The cemetery was actually really pretty. There were loads of flowers and wind chimes swinging in the wind. I got the impression that people visited frequently to tend the graves and take care of the flowers. There were American flags on most of the graves and when I checked the dates I found that many of the men buried there had served in World War II. Like all cemeteries there were also sad, half told stories. Families buried together, parents that outlived their little children, or spouses reunited after years apart. I liked it and would have stayed longer but Sameer was starting to look really twitchy and between that nervous look and the wind in the trees and the distant sound of a dog barking somewhere beyond, I decided to skedaddle. I think I’ve read one too many Stephen King novels.

After that we went to see the Roman Catholic chapel on one of the other hills. This was a really steep hill that we couldn’t drive up so we had to park the car on Main Road and walk up. It was a really pretty, old wooden building with a big bell outside. But it was closed and we didn’t get to go in and look around. There was another, older cemetery behind the chapel and when we looked back there we found a deer grazing among the flowers planted over the graves. It darted off into the woods when it saw us.

We went back to

Catholic chapel

Catholic chapel

Main Street and sat down for dinner at the Wild Ginger restaurant. It was tiny and decorated entirely in purple. The food was divine. We had a Tom Kha soup which is a spicy, coconut milk soup and a vegetarian red curry which was colourful with it’s purple eggplant, orange peppers and green broccoli. Yum! And for dessert the most divine passion fruit cheesecake. This was easily the best meal I’d had since we’d left Chicago.

Sameer at the Wild Ginger restaurant

Sameer at the Wild Ginger restaurant

Then we drove back to J. Patrick House and found milk and chocolate walnut cookies waiting for us in the parlor. Oh lord. The best chocolate walnut cookies I have ever tasted. I have to mail these people and find out what their recipe is. We went back to our room and started the fire and had our milk and cookies. Sheer bliss.

The next morning we packed up and went to breakfast in the main house. Because we didn’t go to the wine and cheese, we hadn’t met the other guests yet. Everyone was seated at different tables placed close together and having a grand old chat. John, the owner of the B&B came over to chat to us and brought us coffee and a breakfast starter of fruit salad with home made muesli, yoghurt and local raisins for toppers. It was so good that Sameer actually ate it! (Sameer is not usually a fruit salad person.) Then he started telling us all stories about his youth in a town near LA, how he’d been a baseball players and a fireman, how at 16 he’d blown a tire and gone careening through the main street and how the cops just told him to “Get that thing out the street” when the car eventually ground to a halt, and about going to school with Van Halen and helping the band organize garage parties and concerts in people’s gardens and decks. We were all enthralled. Then he brought us orange juice and eggs Florentine with pumpkin bread and apricot cream cheese. As if I hadn’t had enough good food in Cambria already. (Note to self – I need that pumpkin bread recipe too.)

Heading down to the main house for breakfast

Heading down to the main house for breakfast

Then John gave us directions and we hopped in the car and drove off through the hills towards Yosemite. And that is a whole ‘nother story with giant trees, growling bears and other drama.

[ By the way, I've posted the rest of my Cambria pictures in my Picasa album. ]